Tuesday, July 12, 2005

vagabonding - making extended, personally meaningful travel possible...

"When I was very young a big financier once asked me what I would like to do, and I said, "To travel." "Ah," he said, "it is very expensive; one must have a lot of money to do that." He was wrong. For there are two kinds of travelers; the Comfortable Voyager, round whom a cloud of voracious expenses hums all the time, and the man who shifts for himself and enjoys little discomforts as a change from life's routine. Both kinds may enjoy themselves equally, but the latter probably sees much more of the country and its people, and has the added pleasure of going where lack of comfort excludes the former."
--Ralph Bagnold, Libyan Sands (1935)

Wednesday, June 15, 2005


Our last Peruvian sunset, near Huacachina, Peru. A great end to a great adventure.


View of Huacachina oasis from the top of a nearby sand dune. This was our first full-on desert oasis experience, and as you can see it really does look like an oasis out of the movies, beautiful. We stayed at the hotel with the bright blue pool roughly in the center of the picture.


Our last hotel of the trip in Huacachina, Peru. Note the sand dunes that magically appear each morning from the mist. We arrived in the evening and knew that we were in an oasis, but had no idea that there would be such massive sand dunes right in the back yard, a real treat.


Huacachina oasis


Getting ready to try sandboarding on the dunes near Huacachina, Peru.


Our green 'buggy' that we took to the sand dunes near Huacachina, Peru. It was a wild ride and felt a lot like a roller coaster. Our driver was constantly looking backwards at us to see our reactions while we screamed and told him to watch where he was damn well driving! He loves his job. We highly recommend this adrenaline-pumping experience.


Steve perfecting his sandboarding technique... Deb ended up using the board like a toboggan, but either way you can gain some serious speed! What we liked the most was the use of gloopy floor wax on the boards before each run.


Sand, sand everywhere... Huacachina Oasis, Peru


Enjoying our last few days in Peru, near Huacachina, Peru


Windswept area near Chauchilla cemetery, Nazca, Peru. This is an area of natural mummification due to the almost complete lack of rainfall in the area - it rains for a total of about 2 hours per year.


Mummified remains, Chauchilla cemetery near Nazca, Peru


Human remains with very long hair, Chauchilla cemetary near Nazca, Peru


Gearing up for the flight in the vomit comet (actually it was perfectly fine!) over the Nazca lines, near Nazca, Peru in a 4-seater Cesna. Nazca lines are located in the Pampa region, the desolate plain of the Peruvian coast and they can only be seen from the air. There are hundreds of geometric patterns, animal shapes, and perfectly straight lines that go on for kilometers.


Various Nazca lines viewed from the air, note the highway running along top left corner.


Nazca lines, viewed from air. Hummingbird image.


Slightly hard-to-see image of a monkey, seen from a 4-seater Cesna plane, Nazca.


View of Cusco and surrounding hills from the Inca site of Sacsayhuaman, pronounced 'sexy woman.' Viva El Peru Glorioso!


Inca walls, Sacsayhuaman, Cusco. This is the area where the Festival of the Sun, or 'Inti Raymi', is held each year on June 24.


Incan walls meet Colonial stonework, Koricancha, Cusco


The other side of Cusco


Mercado Central in Cusco... this lady later threw a piece of produce at Deb!


Top of stone archway in Cusco


Peruvian style taxi... it's really a motorcycle with another couple wheels added... and cheap, too! Anywhere in (a small) town for about 1 sol, or $0.40 Canadian.

Sunday, June 12, 2005

Home Sweet Home

We made it home safe and sound this morning from Lima, all's well!
We are exhausted but happy to be home.
Will talk to you all soon
D & S

Friday, June 10, 2005

Our last day!

Hola from Huacachina, Peru, near Ica - home to giant sand dunes, sandboarding and Pisco, a drink made from white grapes. Powerful stuff!

Tomorrow we leave for Lima, the capital, about 330 km away. We then board a flight at 9:40pm for Toronto and then back to Edmonton by about 10am on Sunday.

Tim Horton´s steeped tea here I come!

I will be posting some additional pictures upon our return (no USB connection here), as well as a couple stories about Cusco, Machu Picchu and our sandboarding/dune buggy experience which I thought was absolutely terrifying - yet fun! Steve loved it, of course. (Dan Fyfe, you need to come work here, you´d get paid for scaring the shit out of everyone with your adventurous driving skills, what could be better!?)

These past few months have flown by! We look forward to hearing from everyone in the next few weeks, as well as summer bbq´s, camping, toilet seats, good toilet paper, real milk, stocked supermarkets, cooking, usable pillows, EFL (English as a First Language), and yes, maybe even heading back to work!

We will miss cheap-as-dirt taxis, Pisco sours, parrots squawking, not going to work, the ever-changing scenery, opportunities to practice our bad Spanish and meeting new and friendly people each day.

Talk to you all soon, and don't forget to check back in the next few days and weeks for additional updates and pictures.
Deb & Steve



Monday, June 06, 2005


Setting off for Machu Picchu on the 'Inca Train'


Machu Picchu


Classic Machu Picchu shot


Machu Picchu


One of the resident llamas, Machu Picchu


Terracing, Machu Picchu


Furry friend


Machu Picchu


View of Machu Picchu from Huayna Picchu


Steve resting atop Huayna Picchu with a view of Machu Picchu


Chillaxin' at Machu Picchu


Waiting for the train back to Cusco, Aguas Calientes, Peru


Shoe shine stand, Cusco


Man holding non CSA approved homemade fireworks at San Blas street party, Cusco. And we thought Bev Fyfe was in Winnipeg!


Looking up a chicken�s butt in Plaza San Blas, Cusco. Getting ready for a festival.


Plaza de Armas and Catedral, Cusco, Peru


Famous 12 sided stone in Inca Wall, Cusco, Peru


Watch out for varmints


Vicu�as at Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca, Peru


View at our highest elevation, 4913m, near Colca Canyon, Peru


Barbed wire, Peruvian style


Typical Peruvian dress


Colca Canyon, Peru


Andean Condor, Colca Canyon, Peru


The edge of the Colca Canyon, Peru. Note the terracing for agriculture.


Deb & Steve sitting on the edge of the Colca Canyon, Peru


Monasterio Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru


Monasterio Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru


Monastario Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru

Saturday, May 28, 2005

Lake Titicaca, Bolivia/Peru

We took a long and twisty bus ride from La Paz to Copacabana on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. Lake Titicaca is considered to be one of the highest navigable lakes in the world and sits at about 4000m asl. Bolivians crudely joke that they got the 'titty' and Peru got the 'caca' part of the lake, but truly, both sides are beautiful.

We hopped on a boat and went to Isla del Sol, Island of the Sun, a 2 hour ride from Copacabana. This island, and its sister island the Isla de la Luna, feature very significantly in Incan creation legends. They believed that the sun was born at Isla del Sol and that it is the birthplace of the first Inca.

From where the boat dropped us off we took a 10km hike, with our new friend Jason Thorne from New Brunswick, to the village where we would stay the night. It was a beautiful walk and along the way we say many ruins, fields, sheep, and the beautiful blue lake which looked just like an ocean. We watched a beautiful sunset and then a full moonrise over Isla de la Luna, perfect.

The next day we headed for Puno, across the border, to check out the Peruvian side of the lake. There was a road block about 4km outside Puno, so we had to get off our bus and walked a bit to the other side of the block. We thought we had left road blocks behind in Bolivia! Apparently the residents of the floating reed islands were on strike.

We took a boat tour to Isla Taquile, a very traditional island. They speak Quechua, an indigenous language, and they very rarely marry non-Taquile people. They have a fascinating tradition of knitting and weaving. We saw many men knitting very complicated patterns with multiple needles, amazing. It is some of the nicest traditional clothing in Peru.

We also visited a floating island, inhabited by the Uros people, made entirely of bouyant totora reeds that grow in the shallows of Lake Titicaca. These reeds are also used to make their homes. The islands are made from layers of reeds which are replenished monthly as the bottom layer rots away.

Because of the stike of the floating island residents, we were only able to visit one of these islands, but we were greatful for the experience.

From Puno we travelled to Arequipa, close to some of the deepest canyons in the world and the subject of our next blog entry.

Friday, May 27, 2005


Road block just outside Puno, Peru. The residents of the floating islands were on strike, protesting the government. We walked through most of it and caught a cab to town.


One of the many stone archways on Isla Taquile, Lake Titicaca, Peru


Hanging out on Isla Taquile, Lake Titicaca, Peru


Isla Taquile, Lake Titicaca, Peru


Modelling our new alpaca wear, Isla Taquile, Lake Titicaca, Peru


Floating island, Lale Titicaca, Peru


Uros Island, made of floating reeds, Lake Titicaca, Peruvian side


Our bus being ferried across the Bolivian part of Lake Titicaca.


The Copacabana Cathedral, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia


A vehicle being blessed at the Copacabana Cathedral, Bolivia. For a requested $1.35 USD per vehicle donation, it�s a cheap alternative to insurance!


Our new alpaca friend, Copacabana, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia


Copacabana, Bolivia at night


Chincana ruins, Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia


The Titi�karka rock, namesame of the lake. Supposed to look like a crouching puma but you need a bit of imagination.


Deb and a Mesa Ceremonica, a ceremonial table, thought to be used for sacrifices, Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca


Quinoa, a very important grain cereal in Bolivia and Peru


Looking at Isla de la Luna and the Cordillera Real from the window of an Incan ruin, Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia


Incan ruins, Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia


Reed boat, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia

Lofty La Paz, Bolivia

We flew from Sucre to La Paz, elevation 3660m, on May 20 and the flight was an adventure in itself.

At 4050m, La Paz´s El Alto is the world´s highest international airport; larger planes need 5 km of runway to lift off and they land at twice their sea-level speed to compensate for the lower atmospheric density.

A fellow passenger, a nice gentleman from La Paz, explained to us that we should try to get out of La Paz by Sunday, May 22nd as the road blocks were going to get much worse by the Monday. The weekend was going to be spared as there was a large festival and parade planned for Saturday. We ended up taking his good advice!

La Paz is a massive city of 1.5 million that fills a canyon, creeps up the bowl, and spreads out to the flat area beyond called El Alto. Once a La Paz suburb, El Alto´s ongoing influx of immigrants from the countryside has morphed it into Latin America´s fastest growing city.

With only 2 nights to spend in La Paz we had hoped to quickly see the sights, but our plans were a little hampered by the enormity of the festival that was planned for Saturday. As we walked along the streets and did a little shopping in the many artesania shops, we noticed that most of the shopkeeps and hotels were setting up bleachers for seating. They sold seats for about $6 Cdn. Beer stands were being set up, and confetti cannons were installed. Apparently this was going to be a big party!

Saturday morning at 7am we awoke to the sound of brass bands and big drums. The parade route was right in front of our hotel so we got an excellent view. It was supposed to go from 7am to 4pm, but it ended up going to after 11pm, and it was like nothing we had seen before. The festival is called La Festividad de Nuestro Señor Jesus del Gran Poder, or Gran Poder for short. It began in 1939 as a candle procession led by an image of Christ through predominatly poor neighbourhoods of La Paz and has grown to include over 25,000 participants, 52 separate groups, and a parade route that takes 4 hours to complete.

A number of dances are featured, including one in which the dancers are decked out in ostrich feathers, several which duplicate Inca ceremonial dances, and La Diablada, the Dance of the Devil, which illustrates the triumph of good over evil. The costumes were amazing, with beautiful embroidery and very strange noicemaking devices. There was a lot of partying going on, and by 11pm most of the participants and spectators were drunk.

All in the name of Jesus!


A shot of La Paz from the air... the city just goes on and on.


Gran Poder, La Paz


Gran Poder, a break in the action


Gran Poder Parade, La Paz


Llama fetuses at the La Paz �witches market.� A fetus is placed under the cornerstone of a new business as an offering, or cha�lla, for good luck.

Sunday, May 22, 2005

More Transportation Stories

We should have known it was going to be an interesting day when our bus driver stopped to pick up shovels and a pick...

From Uyuni, we took a bus to Sucre, Bolivia and were confronted with the common problem of road blocks. Our bus company went ahead, though, and took an alternate route through the bloody desert. We got stuck several times and had to push our large bus through several washed out river beds and especially sandy parts. See photo below. It was quite a hoot.

During the last few weeks, transportation is the whole country has been severely affected by road blocks. The road blocks are for a variety of reasons, but most of them have to do with the need for national petroleum processing as opposed to a non-Bolivian company coming into the country and reaping the profits.

Unfortunately, Bolivia is too far in debt to take control of their own resources and may not have a choice. This has created huge jumps in the price of gas, protests, a call for the President´s resignation, a refusal to accept the President´s resignation, and a general state of chaos. We accept this as the way it is and try to get creative in our choice of spots to visit, although we are disappointed that we´ve had to change plans slightly, as cities such as La Paz or Sucre could be blocked for weeks at a time.

We wish Bolivians and other travellers luck!

Salar de Uyuni, World´s Largest Salt Flats

We headed to Uyuni on May 15 to see the otherworldly Salar, salt flats. Our trip on the way to Uyuni was out of this world, too.

We got a couple seats in a Toyota Land Cruiser for the 7 hour ride from Tupiza to Uyuni. They managed to cram in 12 passengers into one of these things, plus a couple kids, a feat in itself. The ride would have been OK if not for the fact that our driver was falling asleep the entire time - shaking his head, twitching strangely, putting his head out the window, you name it. I would have paid him to let me drive. We managaed to arrive safe and sound, aside from a little mishap with not enough gas. This is Bolivia!

In Uyuni, which was very cold even by Canadian standards, we set out on a tour of the salar. It was an amazing experience. They stretch out for over 12,000 square kilometers. It is a blinding white expanse of crunchy hard packed salt, and walking on it reminded us of ice, always wondering when we would break through. There are some areas where water sits atop the salar, and the surface perfectly reflects the sky and the horizon seems to disappear. This part of Bolivia is drained internally, with no outlet to the sea; the salt deposits are the result of minerals leeched from the mountains and then deposited.

A small portion of the salt is ´mined´ and processed for human consumption.

We also visited an archaeological site complete with mummies, Isla de los Pescadores and a salt hotel (scroll down for photos).

Thursday, May 19, 2005


Pass through the Andes from Chile to Argentina.


Vineyard near Mendoza, Argentina


Road block on route to Salta, Argentina.


Interesting rock formations near Tupiza.


Deb on her trusty steed, near Tupiza, Bolivia. This is close to the area where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their final demise.


Waiting for our driver in Tupiza. They ended up cramming 12 passengers into this Land Cruiser. While we paid double the money the other passengers did, we ended up with only 1/3 of the seat; typical! The driver had to lean on the door to close it after he realized there wasn't enough room, and all the while the whole right side of my ass and hips were literally getting stuck in the door. The pain and the intense heat and the thought of being in this situation for the next 7 hours raised my frustration levels to the point where I screamed ouy "You people are all f*cking animals!" knowing all the while that they couldn't understand me, although I am certain they figured out a choice word or 2. I can laugh about it afterwards, but at the time I could have spit nails. I guess it made me feel like I had vented but I didn't make any friends on that trip. They left me alone after that outburst! Gringa loco!


Girls bagging processed salt at Colchani, Salar de Uyuni.


Steve working hard on the salt flats.


Ojos de Salar - cold water bubbling up onto the salt flats from underground rivers.


Ancient Chullpas mummy, near Uyuni, Bolivia


Water on the salt flats


Isla de los Pescadores, Salar de Uyuni. The 'island' is an ancient coral reef.


Sunset over the Salar de Uyuni


One of the famous Salt Hotels on the world´s largest salt flat, Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia. Everything you see is made of salt.


Trying to get our bus unstuck on the 'alternate route' from Uyuni to Sucre, Bolivia. This happened three times.


Interior of the Convento de San Felipe Neri, Sucre


Sucre, Bolivia - The White City of the Americas

Saturday, May 14, 2005

Another one rides the bus...

Hello from Tupiza, in southern Bolivia! We finally made it here, and crossing the border was like entering another universe. This is the South America we were expecting.

But first, a little story of how we made our way here...

On May 10, we caught an 8pm bus from Mendoza, Argentina to Salta, Argentina. It is an 18 hour bus ride so we were prepared to cach some zzz´s and just relax. All went well until about 7am the next morning. Our bus had stopped on the side of the road, and then the engine was turned off. Turns out there was a road block at a bridge, a very important bridge that would allow us to continue our journey. There were a lot of people on the bridge, with protest signs, bicycles, bbq´s, lawn chairs, dogs, kids, makeshift markets, you name it. Oh, and they had a nice fire going, burning tires, a lovely smell.

We never found out what the road block was for, something to do with land ownership, children´s health, the government - information was nil from the bus staff. Whatever the reason, our driver was not going to budge. Out came the newspaper and coffee, and the feet went up on the steering wheel.

Luckily there was a small fruit stand and a couple little markets fairly close by, so we could get some food and water.

It is amazing how quickly 11 hours go by on a hot bus (!), but the road block finally cleared, at 6pm as they promised, amidst their cheers and waves to us on the bus. We secretly wanted to give them all the finger but you never really know the story so we just waved and smiled. After 29 hours we were in Salta, a city of about 1 million people.

We left Salta May 13 for Bolivia, and expected the worst regarding border crossings, blockades and bus connections. It went off without a hitch! The border closed at 6pm, so we were worried we wouldn´t make it, but our bus actually arrived early. After a short walk across the border, we waited a short time for a bus to Tupiza.


On this next bus, only tourists bought seats and the locals rode for free, but they had to stand in the aisles. As we drove down the road, the bus stopped frequently to pick up locals, and they crammed into the bus with their kids, baskets of oranges, hard boiled eggs, etc. It was a dusty ride on the gravel road but the scenery was quite different then Argentina - lots of llamas, forests of cactus and multi coloured mountains.

We went horseback riding today and we are both walking bowlegged. The scenery was amazing - lots of cactus, red rocks, strange rock formations, mountains, and a blue sky with nothing in it but the sun and moon. This is near the area where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid did their last heist and were holed-up, eventually dying.

We head to Uyuni tomorrow, May 15, in a Toyota Land cruiser as there are no buses Sundays. Uyuni is famous for the world´s largest salt flats.

Will post again soon with some pictures, hopefully - Internet is not too reliable around these parts.
Deb & Steve

Tuesday, May 10, 2005

Thanks for the birthday wishes!

Hi, all and thanks for the wonderful birthday wishes for my 32nd birthday, May 9. I had a wonderful day in Mendoza, Argentina at a local winery and then out to a fabulous dinner with Steve.

We leave tonight by bus to Salta, Argentina, on our eventual way to Bolivia.

As of tomorrow, May 11, we have only 1 month left before we have to go back to Edmonton! Wow, how time flies.

Take care and bye for now,
Deb

Monday, May 09, 2005

Easter Island - Rapa Nui

We realized a lifelong dream and flew from Santiago, Chile to Easter Island (Isla de Pascua in Spanish, and known as Rapa Nui to the local Polynesians) on April 30. We returned to Santiago on May 5, our nephew Michael´s 7th birthday!

It is truly a magical place... almost 1000 moai, large statues, dot the island. Many are still standing, but many lie either in ruins due to historical island 'turf wars' or unfinished in the quarry, waiting to be placed on an ahu, or platform.

Easter Island is one of the most remote places on earth. 3,700 kilometres from the western edge of the South American continent and almost as far from Tahiti, Easter Island lies as solitary as an island can be in the South Pacific. You really do feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. In Rapa Nui legend the island is known as the 'naval of the world', Te Pito O Te Henua.

A few facts: about 3700 people live on the island, which belongs to Chile. The residents speak Spanish; Rapa Nui islanders also speak their own language, Rapanui. Nearly all live in the village of Hangaroa.

There is a lot to do on such a small island of only 166 sq km, a triangle whose maximum length is 24 km and its maximum width only 12 km.

There are some 15,000 archaeological sites of all kinds, thousands of petroglyphs (rock carvings), beautiful beaches, good snorkeling, diving, horseback riding, shopping, caves to explore, fishing, hiking, and for party animals, discos that run all night.

We rented a 4x4 for 2 of the days days and booted around the island's many sites which were amazing. Steve had a lot of fun driving up the extinct volcanoes and making his way in and out of herds of cows and horses. Everything is made of lava rock, which is readily available as the island is volcanic.

We had a wonderful time and hope to return some day.





Easter Island, April 30 - May 5


Bird Man Islands and Bird Man petroglyph on rock.


Our first Rapa Nui sunset.


Group of 15 moai, rebuilt after a tsunami moved them approximately 150m inland. Note the hawk sitting on the head of the last moai to the right.


Ahu Akivi, moai looking out to the sea. The majority of moai have their backs to the sea.


Interior of crater Rano Kau, with Bird Man Islands in the background.


Moai in quarry.


Unfinished moai in quarry.


Moai at the Rano Raraku quarry. There are over 700 moai in this quarry, in various stages of completion. This quarry was the highlight for us for Easter Island.


Deb swimming at Anakena Beach, with moai in the background. The moai are female, and survived so well because they were buried in the sand.


Top knot (big red hat for maoi) in the top knot quarry.


4x4'ing up & down 1 of 70 extinct volcanoes on Easter Island.

Thursday, May 05, 2005


Old meets new, Centro, Santiago.


Centro, Santiago, Chile.


Santiago during the day. Chile´s capital has a bad smog problem as it is in a valley, beside the Andes, with not a lot of wind.


Bubble car ride, Santiago. Andes peeking out from the smog.


Santiago,Chile at night.

Pucon and the Villarrica Volcano, Chile

From Purto Montt we traveled north to Pucon, in the Chilean Lakes District. It is a very beautiful area that reminded us a bit of, you guessed it, Alberta and B.C.

The main attraction in Pucon (in the fall and winter) is to climb a 2900m volcano, Volcan Villarrica. It is the most active volcano in South America, and the town is on alert as the lava is fairly active lately. Despite this, the locals didn´t seem to concerned that they are living beside a simmering volcano that last erupted in 1984, a fire-breathing dragon.

We set out to climb the volcano, with a tour company and about 10 others, at about 8:30am. The first third or so was fairly steep volcanic rock and gravel which changed to very steep snow and ice. It was at this point that we had to put on our crampons, ice picks for your shoes, a new experience for both of us. It was zig-zagging the whole way up. It was pretty tough going, but we were rewarded with magnificent views from the top and also views of lava spurting out the top of the crater, it was amazing (although we didn´t manage to capture that image on film).

The way done was tough, too, as the volcanic gravel is very soft so it was really like sliding in snow, kind of fun.


High up above the clouds...


View of neighbouring, towering, volcano.


Close-up of open crater and lava inside.


We made it to the top of the crater! Sulphur gas spewing out.


Breathtaking views near the top.


Quick, take the picture while I´m still pretending to enjoy this!


Slow going up steep snow.


A third of the way up... ready for crampons.


Enjoying the Loz Pozones hot springs near Pucon.


Close-up of Volcan Villarrica... and yes, that is smoke coming out of this active volcano.


Looking at Volcan Villarrica from the window of our guest house in Pucon, Chile. We´re going to kick your ass!

Navimag Ferry Excursion

We took the famed Navimag ferry excursion from Puerto Natales, Chile to Puerto Montt, Chile. It is a 1500 km journey, passing along some of the most beautiful scenery we´ve seen - fjords, channels, waterfalls, and volcanoes. We were able to see dolphins and whales along the way, and relaxed in the sunshine on the deck as we were fortunate to have excellent weather the whole trip. In all, it was 4 nights and a ton of fun.

The crew was excellent and did their best to keep us occupied with movies, talks, documentaries, good food, a bar, a bingo night, and 2 'fiesta' evenings of drinking and dancing.

This vessel was originally just a cargo ferry, moving vehicles, goods and livestock up the coastline. After many years of backpackers begging to hitch a ride (as this part of Argentina is hard to get about in) the Navimag people got smart and altered the ferry to accommodate passengers, and quite comfortably, too. We slept great!

We met a lot of people from all over the world, hola to any of you who are reading this!


Catching some rays on the upper deck.


Beautiful scenery along the way.


View from bridge.


Volcano along the passage.


Our home away from home.


B-I-N-G-O!!! We didn't win bingo. Perhaps we actually had the correct numbers but were hampered by the Chilean wine that was flowing that night.


Moonrise in the Chilean fjords.


Enjoying the sun on deck.


This is, after all, a cargo ferry...


Flying Chilean colours.


Deb in our cozy Navimag ferry cabin.


Argentine sunset


Steve and some serious wind at the glacial lake at Grey Glacier, Torres del Paine National Park, Chile.


Grey Glacier, Torres del Paine National Park, Chile


First view of Torres del Paine, southern Argentina

Monday, May 02, 2005

Iorana from Easter Island

We are in Easter Island, one of the most remote places on earth, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It is amazing.

All is well, we are healthy and happy.

We will post new stories and pics to the blog soon (I know, I said that a week ago!), likely May 5th or 6th, when we are back in Santiago.

Deb & Steve

Monday, April 25, 2005

A quick hello from Puerto Montt, Chile

A real quick hi to all - we have arrived safe and sound via ferry from Patagonia Sur (south) up the coast 1500km north to Puerto Montt. We are taking a bus in a few hours to a town called Pucon, in the Lakes District, where we will stay for a few days en route to Santiago, Chile.

All´s well and we had an absolute blast on the ferry trip, an amazing experience and lots of new friends. Will post again very soon (check back in a day or 2) with pics and details.

Bye for now
D & S

Tuesday, April 19, 2005

Patagonia

We enjoyed 5 days in Buenos Aires including some memorable meals. The food in general in Argentina has been excellent to anything else so far.

We went to a tango show our last night in Bs.As. - it was really more of a play, with very few words so it was easy to understand, the dancing was excellent.

We left Bs.As. on April 14th for Trelew, in Patagonia. This area of Argentina is beautiful yet very stark. It reminds us a bit of Southern Alberta. There are very few trees and some areas have Badlands similar to Drumheller.

Trelew is a stopping point for visiting the Peninsula Valdez and Punta Tombo. Peninsula Valdez, a national park and wildlife reserve, takes about a day to drive around it, stopping to see the sights. We rented a car to drive around. We had beautiful, sunny weather, about 20 C, and saw lots of wildlife including:

  • Magellanic penguins - largest colony of these birds is in Punta Tombo, also a national wildlife reserve
  • Orca (killer) whales
  • Sea lions - Orcas were trying to feed on these
  • Elephant seals - massive!
  • Armadillos - very cute, actually, and they like Oreos. Inquisitive and almost friendly.
  • Emus - like ostriches, very fast
  • Guanacos - like alpacas, a member of the camel family
  • Patagonian hares - giant rabbit-like animals the size of a Labrador Retriever
  • Cormorants
  • Pheasants
  • Sheep, sheep and more sheep

We really enjoyed being able to go at our own pace with the freedom that renting a car provides. The scenery was beautiful - grasslands and steppe, with crisp night air, gorgeous pink sunsets and bazillions of stars. There were many Guanacos grazing, they are fairly skittish but very nice-looking animals.

We also went to a small Welsh town about 15 km from Trelew, Gaiman. This whole area was setlled in the late 1800s by Welsh people, and they have kept the culture and language alive. We went to a tea house and drove through a train tunnel that is now a tourist attraction, luckily it is a 1 way tunnel. (about 300m long).

On April 17 we flew from Trelew to El Calafete, in Southern Patagonia. The climate change was instantly obvious, crisp and much cooler! For example, today was the first snowfall for this area and we were in a blizzard on a glacier! We are staying at a very posh hostel, and today went on an organized tour to a glacier area that is about 80km away, Perito Moreno. This glacier is advancing at 2m per day, and large chunks of ice at the front of the glacier fall off every day, so the glacier is not really growing but maintaining. It is massive - 35 km long and 4 km wide, and 60 stories high. It is a beautiful blue colour. We viewed it from a boat, and also from several viewing platforms. When the ice falls it makes a sounds like thunder, amazing.

On Thursday, April 21, we are heading south to Puerto Natales, Chile from where we will embark on a 4 day journey by cargo ferry, via Navimag, to Puerto Montt, Chile. We´ll go through canals and Chilean fjords, so we won´t have access to a computer for awhile. The ferry has been outfitted to carry tourists so we won´t have to sleep in the hold! We are really looking forward to it - it could be either very boring or very exciting, we´ll see. Until then...


Orcas having lunch at Punta Norte, Peninsula Valdes.


View of Moreno Glacier from viewing stands. We waited and watched, and every now and then a large hunk of glacier would fall into the water, creating a massive sound like thunder and an amazing splash, as well as oohs and aahs from all who were lucky enough to be looking at the right time.


View of Moreno glacier from Lago Argentina, on boat excursion.


Patagonoian sunrise, Trelew, Argentina. This was taken in the early morning at the Trelew airport while we waited to board a flight. Much better than a view of the airport hotel or parking structures.


Elephant Seals, Peninsula Valdes.


Friendly armadillo. This little creature was waiting for us in a parking area near where the Orcas were having lunch. When I opened the door of the rental car, he practically tried to jump into the car, likely with a keen sense of smell he knew we had snacks. Steve managed to get out of the driver's side and lure him away with cookies. Likely not their natural diet but he furtively ran away with the cookie and hid it in his den. He was a quick little fellow!


Patagonian landscape, Peninsula Valdez. I know it may look flat and boring but it is one of the most beautiful places I've been.


Penguins making their way to their dens on the beach, Punta Tombo. These little guys can be found up to 8oom away from the water's edge, they work so hard to get back and forth from the water to their den to feed their chicks.


Penguins at Punta Tombo, Patagonia, Argentina

Tuesday, April 12, 2005


Typical corner fruit stand in Montevideo


National Library - Argentina


Pink House - Federal Government Building. Madonna sang 'Don't Cry for Me Argentina' from the balcony for the movie Evita.


Cemetario in Recoleta, Buenos Aires


Everyday driver in Montevideo, Uruguay.


Did we mention that Uruguyans like meat?!


Meat... fire... good...


Typical Brazilian sidewalk - Porto Alegre, Brazil


Flower closed for night.


13 m high flower that opens at sunrise, closes at dusk - Buenos Aires, Argentina. Steve figures that Edmonton needs one of these.


Beach in Porto de Galinhas, Brazil. Just show up in the morning and all your needs are met: rent a chair and umbrella, order some soft cheese grilled over coals topped with oregano and honey, drink plentiful beer and mixed drinks and eat grilled fish caught earlier that day. A relaxing place to spend a couple days.

Monday, April 11, 2005

Beautiful Buenos Aires

Hola from Buenos Aires, Argentina. All's well and we are happy and healthy.

Our last post had us bus-ing it to Montevideo, Uruguay. We actually got a fair amount of sleep on the bus. Montevideo is a very nice city of about 1.5 million. The surrounding area reminded us both a lot of Alberta! Fields, cattle, gas plants... We only stayed for 2 nights so we certainly did not get a good idea of what Uruguay has to offer, but it is worth a look. We had lunch at the Puerto Mercado, or 'port market' - chock full of BBQ joints, you can see the smoke billowing from the market for blocks. We also walked around the Cidade Vieje, or 'old city' and did a lot of walking. And laundry!

We took a ferry from Montevideo to BA and promptly got a place to stay in a well-located part of the city, thanks to a Canadian couple (Ottawa) that we met on the ferry, John & Janice. A big shout out to you both! John & Janice are one a 1 year trip around the world, and we look forward to hearing about their adventures along the way.

BA reminds us of Paris... lots of shops, restaurants, grand boulevards, dog crap... but really, it´s like a slowly-deteriorating Paris, minus the Tour d'Eiffel and a few other attractions. It really does have a European flair to it. We have been doing a lot of walking and seeing the sights. So far we have toured a very old cemetary with above-ground mausoleums (including Eva Peron´s, 'Don´t Cry for Me Argentina'), the downtown administrative areas, and the San Telmo Sunday artisan market.

Last night we went to our first South American futebol (soccer) game! It was awesome. It was the Boca Juniors vs. the Rosario, Central. Boca won 4-1. It was unlike anything we have ever seen, superpassing any sports event we´ve witnessed, and this was just a neighbourbood game! Boca Juniors are one of the most popular teams in Argentina, with a 100th anniversary in 2005, and the crowd was even more exciting to watch than the game itself (which was non-stop action). It was 90 minutes of pure noise - the fans sang songs, cheered, and participated in freakishly-coordinated hand gestures. The fans for the 2 teams were separated with 10 foot walls topped with barbed wire, thankfully, although we did not feel unsafe. The whole stadium jumped up and down in unison, and you could feel the stadium move even though it is made of pure concrete, an amazing feeling. We are fans!

BBQ joints, or parrillas, are popular here. Argentine beef is rated as the top in the world. I must say it rivals Alberta's. It is common to get a personal mini-hibachi right at your table with a mixed grill of chicken, pork, beef, and lots of other stuff. I think the key is 'don't ask, just eat.'

We plan on attending a tango show tomorrow night and perhaps some more walking around! ;-)


The Boca Juniors Stadium, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Wednesday, April 06, 2005

Dam Big Water (and bird poop)

hi, all - As of our last post, we were still beachin´ it in Porto de Galinhas. We are now in southern Brazil, (Porto Alegre) near Uruguay, awaiting our 10pm bus ride to Montevideo, Uruguay (11 hours but the seats fold to beds).
The landscape around here is fairly similar to Alberta, and ranching is big. Soy beans are also important. So is eating beef. We just had lunch at an all-you-can-eat churrascaria - basically, you sit and they bring fire-roasted meet to your table until you make them stop. Greg Bruins, we can hear you packing already!!

Here is an update of the last few days: From Porto de Galinhas we flew to Foz do Iguacu, or Iguassu Falls. The falls are the largest in the world (not highest). There are over 250 separate water falls that make up the falls as a whole. The falls are the biggest tourist attraction in this area, justly so, and are in a National Park. A highlight was taking a helicopter ride over the falls and seeing a bit of the Argentinian side, too.

There are lots of animals in the park, and we especially liked the ones that looked like racoons but have a longer snout and tail. Most of the animals are nocturnal in the rain forest. [note: We have learned that this animal is called a Coati, and it is fairly common throughout Central and South America. Thanks, Mike!]

We also visited the largest bird park in Latin America. There are hundreds of macaws, toucans, parrots, cranes, ducks, etc etc. While walking through one of the aviaries Deb thought a bird was attacking her but rather it had taken a large dump all over her shirt. Apparently it´s lucky to get shit on by a bird. Maybe a chickadee but this bird was BIG, and so was its lunch it had before it sat up in the trees above Deb.

We visited and toured the largest hyrdoelectric dam in the world, Itaipu Dam, it was amazing. It generates power for 25% of Brazil and 90% of Paraguay. If you were to burn the equivalent amount of oil per day as this place generates, you´d need 434,000 barrels. Per day! At their highest rate of construction, the work was equivalent to putting up a 20 storey building every 55 minutes! And they employed 40,000 people at its peak. (Cost of over 18 billion USD).

So, now, on to Uruguay. Ciao Ciao, as they say in Brazil.
Steve and Deb


Shot from helicopter showing walkways.


Steve at Itaipu Dam. Water shoots down the white tubes to spin the turbines.


Iguassu Falls

Raccon-Like Beast (Coati)


One of the many coati that hang out near the viewing platforms at Iguassu Falls.


Scarlet Macaw


Toucan Sam

Saturday, April 02, 2005

Hello from Porto de Galinhas, Brazil

Hi, all - we are in Porto de Galinhas (Port of Chickens) on the coast of Brazil, south of Recife, the large city that is the capital of the state, Perambuco. The beach here has been consistently rated as the top beach in Brazil, and we agree. They stretch for kilometers, with powdery sand, shallow, warm waters and are very wide.

This is a vacation spot for many Brazilians. Today we took a little raft up a river and saw seahorses in the mangrove trees and rode rented bikes for a few kilometers on the beach, as the sand compacts well close to the ocean and it´s easy to do. Another thing to do here is take a little boat (or swim) out during low tide to visit natural swimming pools created by the tide, very nice.

Porto is famous for its seafood, which is delicious and very fresh. Today we had shrimp and pineapple, yesterday we had grilled fish with lime on the beach. The beach vendors sell all kinds of things, from roasted cheese coated in oregano to carpets and everything in between. Steve & I think it´d be hilarious to show up with plumbing supplies and try our hand at selling them at the beach.

Tomorrow we take a flight to Foz Iguacu, or Iguassu Falls, near the Argentine/Brazilian/Paraguay borders. These are the largest waterfalls in the world by volume and the area is also home to the world´s largest hydroelectric project. We will spend a couple days in Foz before we make our way to Argentina.

We hope everyone is well. Over and out, off to dinner.
Deb & Steve


Olinda, Brazil and colourful streets.


In Olinda, Brazil. In the Perambuco state.


View of store interior before Easter Week, or Semana Santa. The whole store´s ceiling is filled with Easter eggs hanging off special hooks. Brazilians are mad for Easter here, all the shops looked similar. It was a bit sad to see, about a week later, the stores filled with smashed-up and deeply discounted versions of the same.


View of top of Pao du Acucar (Sugar Loaf), Rio. A few seconds earlier we couldn't see the top as it was shrouded in clouds, very dramatic. As we neared the top we could see people climbing the sheer face of the mountain; they took the cable car back afterwards. Upon speaking to them it sounded like something they did fairly regularly, as in how normal people buy a coffee. And it only took them a couple of hours!


Ipanema Beach, Rio. Cloudy day but water very warm and sun very hot. Our hotel was only a few blocks up from the beach in Ipanema, one of the safer neighbourhoods in Rio.


For only 50c, you can take the tram (bondi) from downtown Rio up to Santa Teresa, an affluent suburb in the hills. Kids hang off the sides of the tram for kicks as it hurtles up the hills. The tram goes through some shabbily beautiful areas of Rio, with views on either side of the embankment on which the tracks run. 19th-century pastel-colored houses around cobble squares, popular with Rio's yuppies -- sort of Rio's Montmartre.


Paraty Harbour, Brazil. Paraty, also spelled Parati, is a lovely colonial town, 125 miles from Rio de Janeiro on Ilha Grande Bay, Brazil's southeastern coast. It lies on the border between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo states. Old town, the historic center is a national historic monument. Closed to vehicles, the streets and buildings are preserved.

For an idea of what's happening in town try the Paraty Web Cam; the shot of Plaza Matriz is where we watched young kids play soccer (futbol) with skill that would have shocked most North Americans.


Trinidade Beach, near Paraty, Brazil. To get to this beach we took a rickety town bus up and down a winding road through wash-outs and jungle, walked through a field with grazing cows and up and over a steep path to eventually land on this 2nd of 3 terrific beaches. The next beach 'down the road' is where the surfers hang out, a fair bit of work to catch some waves. We enjoyed the sun, relative seclusion and some simple body-surfing. And yeah, that's Deb in the foreground.


View from Corcovado, Christ the Redeemer mountain, Rio at night. A bit blurry but gives you an idea of just a small piece of this extraordinary city at night.


Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor), Rio de Janeiro. Located atop the Corcovado Mountain at a height of 710 meters, the statue overlooks Sugar Loaf Mountain and the City of Rio. The statue of Christ the Redeemer is certainly one of the world's best-known and most-visited monuments. This outing begins in the Cosme Velho District, aboard a miniature train that runs through the steep Atlantic Rainforest up to the foot of the statue, offering stunning glimpses of Rio from many different angles. From the top, the view is nothing short of heavenly: Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, Botanical Gardens, the Jockey Club, and the Lagoon.

Friday, March 25, 2005

Rio

Greetings from Rio! Our plans changed a little bit as we could not get a ferry from Angra dos Reis to Ilha Grande, too bad. We waited and waited but no ferry so we decided to hop a bus to Rio instead.

Rio is an amazing city with lots to see and to, and also very beautiful. We have been to the main touristy things such as the cable car to Sugar Loaf, Pao du Acucar, and took a cog train up to see the massive statue of Jesus looking over the city, Cristo Redemptor. They were both well worth it and we got some great views of the city.

A great surprise was that on the evening of March 21, Lenny Kravitz played a free outdoor show on Copacabana Beach, we have never been surrounded by so many people, there were over 500,000. Helicopters flying above us shooting footage, crazy.

We are staying in a very safe part of Rio, right on the beach at Ipanema, where we have enjoyed 1 very nice day so far. The waves are very big and you can do some excellent body surfing but you have to keep a good hold on your bathing suit and watch as the force of the waves are incredible. It is raining at the moment but still very warm, 26 C.

We have explored the city quite a bit by bus and metro, including the beach areas, downtown, and some residential neighbourhoods. It is a very busy city. Today being Good Friday it is a little more sedate.

As far as food goes, all is well. The big thing here are par quilo restaurants, or by the kilo. It is a buffet with all kinds of salads, hot dishes, and the main attraction in Brazil, grilled meats, called churrascario. You pile it up and have it weighed, all very organized, and the price varies from approximately $10 CDN per kilo, the average plate of this kind of food costing $5 CDN. Also popular is fresh juice, you can get it on every street corner.

Due to our lack of the Portuguese language, Steve has been using a lot of hand signals, including the A-OK sign, thumb and index finger in a circle, other 3 fingers open. However, we learned that this means ¨you're an asshole¨so he has stopped doing this.´


We are looking to leave Rio and head further north but are plans have been hampered a bit by businesses being closed for Easter festivities. We think by Monday at the latest we should be on our way, though.

Happy Easter to all!
Deb & Steve

PS - thanks to Randy Reichardt for setting up our RSS feed - you´ll see a link to it on the right hand side of the page. Those of you who know what this is will be happy, otherwise, just ignore it.

Monday, March 21, 2005


View from air of Lenny Kravitz concert, Copacabana Beach, Rio, March 21 with 500,000 of our closest friends.


Lenny Kravitz, Copacabana Beach, Rio.

Saturday, March 19, 2005

Paraty, Brazil

Hello, everyone from Paraty, Brazil.

All´s well and we are enjoying the weather here, still very humid but not raining like in Sao Paulo the last few days (we have been watching on the news at night accounts of mass flooding in Sao Paulo, so we left just in time!)

We took a 5 hour bus ride from Sao Paulo north up the coast to Paraty, a small colonial-style town with cobblestone streets. It is quite a touristy place with lots of small hotels called ´pousadas´and boutiques. It is also known for its beaches. A couple of days ago we took a local bus to a town called Trinidade which has 3 nice beaches within walking distance. There were quite a few surfers on on of these beaches as one of them had decent waves.

Yesterday we went on a schooner tour of the Bay of Paraty and visited several local islands and beaches, all very beautiful. The water is very warm and clear so jumping off the side of the boat is no problem.

We will leave tomorrow on a bus to a place just a couple hours north up the coast, Angra dos Reis. From here we will take a ferry to an island called Isla Grande, a (supposedly) vehicle-free island with lots of secluded beaches. The island has a colourful history and has served as a prison and a leper colony.

From Isla Grande we´ll ferry back to the mainland and head north to Rio, where we expect to be for about 5 days and to spend the ´Semana Santa´, the week leading up to Easter, which is kind of a big deal here in Brazil as we note from the many Easter ads and displays that we see, with Kinder surprise eggs as large as watermelons.

Portugese is an interesting language and so far we have been trying to learn just a couple new words a day but this is not enough! We keep wanting to speak Spanish but we are getting by with loads of hand gestures.

So far the food is good and cheap, lots of chicken (´frango´) and fish and squid (´lulu´) but we are saving our beef consumption for Argentina.

Take care and bye for now! Will report on Rio soon,
D & S

Tuesday, March 15, 2005

Sao Paulo, Brazil

We arrived this morning in Sau Paulo via Toronto. Our flights were good but long! (10 hours from Toronto). To our amazement the taxi driver knew where the hotel was AND our reservation was available! A good start.

It is raining here but warm. A nice change from snow and wind in Edmonton. It is about 28 C today and very humid.

This city is large beyond belief; approximately 18 million people and highrises and skyscrapers everywhere the eye can see. Tomorrow we´ll see some sights and plan our escape to the beach.

´Til then...

Friday, March 04, 2005

Welcome to our online travel journal

Hola and welcome to
Steve & Deb Feisst's online travel journal.
This will serve as our travel diary for those of you who wish to follow our travels.

We will be posting updates and images from our upcoming South American adventure to this web site - add this site to your Favorites (AKA 'bookmark' it) and visit as often as you like.


http://www.telusplanet.net/public/feisst/

We leave March 14 for Sao Paulo, Brazil and arrive back in Edmonton June 12 via Lima, Peru.


This site allows you to comment on any of the postings that you see - feel free to respond or you can always drop us a line via the email address we'll be using during our trip:
feisst@gmail.com


Have a great spring!
Steve and Deb
xo