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FROM THE GROUND UPby Pat Chenier, O.D.H. THE HOME LAWNWhen constructing you lawn, you should provide for drainage of water away from your home, hopefully without diverting it all on you neighbour's property. Plan for a slope away from the house, creating wide shallow swales if necessary to divert the water where it will not create a problem. Grade and firm your subbase allowing approximately 8 to 12" for the addition of topsoil. After you are satisfied with the slope of your lawn, add a layer of topsoil 6 to 8" deep. Now add a layer of peat moss 2 to 4" deep and work into the topsoil maintaining the grade established. Rake and roll to ensure a level surface. Be sure to remove all rocks and roots as you work. Repeat the raking and rolling until you are satisfied that the suface is ready for seeding. Remember that the better the surface now, the easier it will be to maintain later. Fertilizer can be raked into the soil, if desired at this stage. Seed, using a good quality seed at the rate recommended on the package. I use local seed and find that it produces a turf that is suitable for our climate. Rake the seed in and reroll lightly to firm. Water well but do not flood . Keep the seedbed moist with frequent light waterings until the seedlings are established, then reduce the frequency of the watering but increase the amount to encourage deep roots. Keep off the lawn for 6 to 8 weeks if possible. Mow when the seedlings reach a height that is 1/3 higher than the normal mowing height. Mowing will increase the spread of the turf by tillering (new sprouts from the roots).If seeding is not quick enough, you can use sod. All the same preparation is required as for seeding. The only difference is leaving the topsoil a little lower to allow for the thickness of the sod. Sod must be kept well watered until the roots take hold in the soil and then the frequency of watering is reduced. Sodding is more expensive than seeding, but quicker. It is good for slopes where erosion would be a problem. On a slope the sod is either pegged in place, or held in place with chicken wire until established. Before you mow, remember to remove the pegs or wire. Weeds will probably sprout along with your grass seed. Do not spray the young grass seedlings. Wait until they have been mowed at least 2 times to ensure that you do not damage them. Most annual weeds will disappear with regular mowing. Perennial weeds can be controlled with 2-4,D. If clover or chickweed is a problem, add mecoprop to the sprayer. Mecoprop is sold as Clover and Chickweed Killer. Avoid the use of Dicamba in the landscape if possible. It damages the roots of your trees and shrubs because it builds up in the soil. A healthy, well watered lawn will not give weeds a chance to get established. Regular mowing is probably the most important factor in a good lawn. Mow as required, removing only 1/3 of the foliage. If you are prevented from mowing and the grass becomes too tall, split the mowing into 2 sessions. Set the mower higher to remove only 1/3 of the foliage and then in a day or two, mow at regular height. Regular mowing prevents the accumulation of too much thatch. With regular mowing, the grass clippings do not have to be removed. They can be left to add humus and nutrients to the lawn. Fertilizing should be done on a regular basis. I find that 16-20-0 produces an excellent lawn in my area. Because mowing weakens the root system of grass, you must ensure a healthy root system and that is why I prefer a higher rate of phosphorous in the fertilizer. High nitrogen fertilizers only promote excessive top growth which is mown off. Apply the fertilizer at the rate of 2.5 Kg per 100M2 (5 lbs per 1,000 ft2). Use a spreader to obtain uniform coverage. Water well. Kentucky bluegrass and Red Fescue are more drought resistent than most other lawn grasses. These are the two most common grasses used in the home lawn. Watering of these grasses should be held off until they just start to show signs of drought, that is they turn a darker color and the foliage folds inward. Water deeply instead of frequent shallow waterings. You want the roots to go down for the water so they can withstand dry periods better. Thatch only becomes a problem on lawns when clippings cannot decompose fast enough due to lack of aeration from overwatering or compaction, excess growth from overfertilizing, and infrequent mowing. If a lawn is mowed regularly, the clippings can be left to provide humus and nutrients. When thatch becomes excessive, rake vigorously or use a power rake to remove it. Remember some thatch is good. It protects the grass roots from temperature extremes and foot traffic. It provides a cushioning effect like the underlay does for you carpet.
lawn.html This page by Pat updated August 18, 2000 |