Triathlon

Swimming Topics | Bike Topics| Run Topics | Transition Zone | Nutrition

Triathlons have provided for a lot of fun and diversion to a primary sport of running. This page is devoted to discussing some of the finer points to Triathlons. Various features will be added which talk about training aspects to compete in triathlons. 

10 Hrs a week for 10 months to an Ironman

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Swim Topics

Eye vision in the triathlon

I am of poor enough vision that I cannot cycle without glasses so I have done two things.

1) Pool swims - I don't use anything other than standard goggles and just try to follow the blurry black lane line :> It does make turns a little tricky. Then I put on my glasses for the Bike and Run segments.

2) Lake Swims (a) Some races have Glasses Stewards and just try to follow the masses and hope the escort Kayaks tell you if you get off course. One way is to stay to the inside "line" or path and keep the kayaks/canoes in sight.

(b) Wear contacts inside the goggles and so far I have heard of one athlete who did lose a lens once. To combat the sweat in the eyes bit train in contacts for the run and keep a contact solution eyedropper in a pocket to rinse when necessary. Biking with contacts is worse with the wind in the eyes and you may have to use wide - wrap around sunglasses to prevent dryness.

Stroke Choice

Stick with a conservative crawl to stay from getting tired but depending on sun position a brief stint of a smooth backstroke works for me, breaststroke is not a good stroke because you lose far more speed than the energy savings in my opinion and with a mass swim it can also be problematic. You would almost be better to do a long slow crawl "catch up" technique than breast stroke.

Having said that I found myself using breaststroke at IM Utah in 2002 because of the heavy swells at a near head-on approach to then time diving under each swell and riding about every third or fourth swell to the top for sighting. This of course was not an issue because the some 1500 competitors had been blown all over the course and congestion was not an issue.

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Bike Topics

Setting Cleats

I am not an expert but do have some experience in setting cleats. Use this method only if you do not have a bike shop nearby that will help you as they will be far more refined than what I am suggesting, the will also likely readjust the seat height based on the cleated shoe as well. Ok Here goes the instructions. This method is to attach the cleats but don't tighten the screws all the way so they is a tiny bit of play in the shoe/cleat connection.

1. Either get someone to hold the bike or use a firm bike trainer that will offer full stability, you cant do this by yourself in the doorway very easily because you need to mimic riding without holding anything.
2. Clip into the pedals
3. Pedal backwards as closely as you can to your normal pedaling motion allowing the cleats to shift until they find a static position. If you have a trainer you can pedal forward.. even better (Don't pedal forward if you have a partner holding the handlebars...they wont like it much)
4. After you cleats have shifted to a neutral position have your partner mark the outline of the cleat on the bottom of the shoes with a pencil or felt. Obviously don't shift the cleats from the position you just established and stay on the bike until they have marked both.
5. Uncleat from the bike, its likely that they will shift a bit when you do so but at least you marked it.
6. Take off the shoes and readjust the cleats to the marked position then tighten the screws snug.
7. Get back on the bike and test the feel and adjust if there is ANY sign of knee discomfort.

Setting seat height

1. With your back against a wall and feet pedal distance width apart measure your inseam height from floor (best to use a hardbound book against the wall at right angles and push it upwards towards your crotch and mark the wall where the top of the book is).
2. Repeat step 1 two more times and take the average of the three (I know mine never was exactly the same)
3. Multiply that average by .889
4. Measure the distance in step 3 from the center of the crank to the top of the seat midway from the front and back edges of the seat.
5. Adjust the seat post height and middle to that location along the rear seat tube.

Improving 40K Bike Times

Some suggestions are using weights to build strength, then you have to get out on the bike and train at faster speeds. Find a group ride that you can do 40-50 miles with an average speed around 20-25 mph preferentially as a group because its easier to do it with a bunch of people than killing your self alone. Work on the strength, hard rides and a lighter bike.

Brick workouts

A true brick is several run/bike combos. One athlete suggested that you "go to a track. take bike and bike trainer. Set the bike up on the infield next to a gate with bike stuff out just like a transition area. Do a 1 mile warm up (run) then the fun begins. Go run 15 min. about 50%-60% effort than do a quick change and ride the trainer and ride for 20-25 min @ 60%-70% effort this is 1 set. do 4 sets (I) recommend do this on a weekend day and not after a hard ride or run the day before. please adjust to your own time factors and ability levels. ... also there's a brick workout but just doing rides and run back to back is good for your legs getting them used to doing this, I always try and run and ride the same day even if its only a couple mile either way. If you were to ride to work and school your looking at a 36 mile day not to bad, and your done with your workout when you get home"

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Run Topics

More bricks or longer tempo runs where you work on negative splitting will help that Gumby feeling. Also you may find running easier effort in the first half of runs the most useful way around it and then pushing the second half once the legs are fully back.

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Transition Zone

Heart Rate Zones by Sport

Remember that your heart rate zones on a run, on a bike, and swimming are different! That is important to judge effort. For example a max HR running is about 192 but on the bike is about 178 and in the water about 160-170. It has to do with muscle groups and gravity. Keep that in mind when you are training at specific zones.

Tapering

An important part of any race preparation is the tapering or reducing of workout volume leading up to the race. As a general rule of thumb any endurance specific training within the last two weeks before the race is ineffective and may, in fact, be counter-productive. In that second last week you can have some limited fine tuning with speed workouts as long as you have adequate rest, reduced workout volumes (60% of regular volume or less) and long breaks between interval sets. Make sure you also stretch sufficiently. In the final week leading to the race your workouts should be limited to 30% of your regular volume or less and focused on range of motion, stretching and technical drills.

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Nutrition

Power Gels, Clif Shots and Gu are excellent semi solid choices . Take them every 30-45 minutes as directed and they work great. In race settings use them about every 30 minutes rather than the 45 minutes for in workouts due to the higher energy expenditure. Clif Bar for bike rides works well in moderation but they tend to bloat with high fluid intakes.

Other supplements that seem to work well are Ironfuel. I used that at IM Utah and also in some training runs with great results. With its high density I strongly recommend proper fluid intakes.

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