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Puppy Buyers Guide

In this guide we have assembled some basic puppy information to make the transition to your home as smooth as possible. As puppies are individuals, use your best judgment in deciding what works best and what doesn't. Most important is that you establish a consistent routine as soon as possible.

We hope this guide will help you raise a happy and enjoyable new companion!



First Day / First Night
Crate Training
Housetraining
Physical Activity
Grooming
Nipping / Rough Playing
Jumping up
Chewing
Socialization / obedience

First Day / First Night

The main concern with the first couple of days is in letting the pup get acquainted. Within a secure/safe and confined area the pup should be allowed to roam. Give him enough time to sniff and explore, to find his bed area and to determine a good nap-taking spot.

The first night alone, away from his littermates, in a new home can be one of intense fear for your new pup. It can be stressful for the pup and for you. Let him spend a couple of nights in the bedroom with you or at close proximity of the bedroom in a crate with a blanket. He may cry for a while, but he will settle down. On average two to three nights are usually enough for this special treatment.Top of page

Crate Training

Crate training may take time and effort but will be useful in the future. The crate is considered a house, and it's a place where the dog, at any age, goes to eat, sleep, and for time out. The crate is also a safe place for the dog to travel in.

  • Select a good size crate for your dog. It should be large enough for the dog to stand up and to be able to turn around. Adult Airedales are comfortable in a 400 or 500 sized Vari Kennel or equivalent. We suggest a 500 sized crate, it is roomier.
  • Always associate the crate with something good.
  • Place the crate in an area where you can see it at all times and where the pup can see you.
  • Encourage the pup to enter the crate by dropping small pieces of treats near the door and then further and further inside.
  • Feeding the dog in the crate will create a pleasant association with the crate.
  • Never force the entry into the crate, use what ever is needed to motivate the pup to go on its own.
  • Never use the crate as a punishment.Top of page
Housetraining

Housetraining requires time, patience and commitment. The more consistent you are the quicker the pup will learn. Every puppy will have an accident this is part of learning.

  • Establish a schedule and take your pup outside frequently.
  • Take the pup outside every 1-2 hours, immediately when waking up, after eating, after playing and even during a long vigorous play period.
  • Praise the puppy profusely every time she eliminates outdoors.
  • Use a word like 'do business' while the pup eliminates. This will help remind her of what she's suppose to do.
  • Watch, watch and watch, never leave the pup on her own when she's outside because you will want to praise her every time.
  • Watch for signs, the pup will start to sniff around and/or start to circle, take her outside immediately.
  • If you can't watch the pup or when you have to leave, confine the pup in an area small enough that she won't want to eliminate. A crate is a good place. Take the pup outside to her bathroom spot immediately when you take her out of the crate.
  • If you catch, 'in the act', the pup eliminating in the house, make a loud noise to interrupt her and take her outside. Praise her when she finishes the job.
  • If you happen to find a wet spot in the house, it's to late for punishment, just clean it.Top of page
Physical Activity

A well-exercised puppy is a less destructive puppy. By taking your puppy for short walks and playing with your pup, you will avoid puppy boredom. Puppies usually get into trouble when they are bored. Supervise your pup's play time in the yard the first few weeks until you are certain he will not get into much mischief. Remember that some plants are poisonous to dogs.

To prevent injury, avoid excessive jumping on or off high objects, such as in and out of the car, until at least 1 year old.Top of page

Grooming

General grooming
It is important to frequently comb the hair on the legs and face to remove dead hair and tangles. Trim the hair around the pads of the feet, and check in between the pads for hairballs, these can become quite painful. Use blunt ear/nose scissors to cautiously remove the hairballs. In the winter, check for ice balls between the footpads.

Ear Care
It is very important that the hair does not grow too thick inside the earflap and on the cheeks as this can force the ear to stand straight up. Keep the hair trimmed on the inner ear flaps as well. During teething peritod(4-6 months), the ear set may, at some point, look crooked, the ears may need to be glued. Do not attempt this yourself, the breeder should be able to assist you with this. Keep the outer ear area clean (underside of earflap), using cotton balls moistened with an ear cleaning solution. Flop-eared dogs are more prone to ear infections if the hair is not kept trimmed and the ear area clean.

Grooming supplies
Depending on the extent of grooming you want to undertake yourself, at the very minimum you will need:

  • slicker brush;
  • 7-inch comb with fine and coarse tooth side;
  • nail clippers;
  • Kwik-stop powder (to stop the bleeding);
  • nose/ear scissors with blunt ends to trim hair between footpads and around the ears.Top of page

Normal Puppy Behavior

Nipping / Rough Play

Puppies use their mouths to play with each other and will try to bite or 'mouth' your hands when being petted and when playing with you. This is normal behavior in the development of a puppy.

Redirecting the puppy onto acceptable chew toys is the best way to work around this stage. You should also teach the puppy to be gentle with hands and that nipping will result in an unpleasant consequence. When nipping, yell 'OUCH' and then ignore the pup until she calms down.

Be patient and consistent, it will take many repetitions for the pup to understand.Top of page

Jumping up

As cute as you may think it is, one day when you are wearing your nice 'ARMANI' suit and 4 dirty feet jump up on you, you may not think it's that cute.

By jumping up the pup is only looking for attention. By pushing her away, kneeing her in the chest, etc. you are giving her giving her exactly what she wants, ATTENTION. Even though it is negative it is still ATTENTION.

What to do:

  • Say ''OFF'' in a sharp voice and turn away, ignore the dog.
  • Turn away until the dog's 4 feet are on the ground, then reward/praise the good behavior.
  • When praising if the pup starts jumping up again just repeat step 2.
  • The pup will soon realize that she is not getting any attention when jumping up.

Other corrections like tap, slap and/or hit the puppy's face almost always result in unwanted behavior:

  • dog could become 'hand shy';
  • dog could refuse to come to you;
  • dog could attempt to bite;
  • a mild slap may cause the pup to get even more excited and she will want to play more. Top of page
Chewing

Puppies explore by putting things in their mouth. Teething goes on until the pup is about 6 months old. Chewing is a normal stage in the pup's development.

Chewing anything and everything could be a real problem. To prevent most problems you MUST teach what us acceptable to chew and what isn't. Following are a few suggestions to help you out with the chewing phase.

  • Puppy proof your house by moving all breakables, valuables, cleaners, pesticides, poisonous plants, etc. out of reach.
  • Interrupt the chewing of something not acceptable with a loud noise and offer an acceptable chew toy. Praise when the pup takes the new object.
  • Don't give the pup old socks, old shoes or old children toys to play with. Dogs can't make the difference between old and new.
  • Supervise the puppy all the time.
  • Confine your pup in a safe place when you leave the house. This is a good time to start crate training.
  • Make sure the pup get lots of exercise, go out for a walk, play fetch games, etc.

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